Crochet Plants vs Zombies Snow Pea: Easy Peasy Pattern by Suzy Dias #pvz

Crochet Snow Pea Pattern: Variety is the Spice of Life

Like a good recipe, crochet patterns can have many inspirations.  I started this Snow Pea pattern using an original FREE pattern by Kate Wilson that I found on Ravelry: Plants vs. Zombies Snow Pea Shooter (click here).  I made so many changes in the end that I made my new pattern available for free, but I kept the fabulous idea to make oversized leaves so it can stand up on it’s own. Keep reading for the full scoop…

PVZ Snow Pea FREE Crochet Pattern by Suzy Dias

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PVZ Snow Pea FREE Crochet Pattern by Suzy Dias

As with many of my amigurumi projects, I start with a pattern and then make changes. Here’s the whole story…my son wanted a Snow Pea and found Kate Wilson’s pattern. He really liked it, except (there’s always a catch), he wanted a taller stem, a pea that fits in the mouth, different eyes, he didn’t want flat spikes, etc. So much for an easy project. I did my best to keep track of my changes to keep share a new pattern with photos instructions. I hope I worked out all of the kinks. It’s been a busy house lately.

Zombies in Paris?

PVZ Snow Pea FREE Crochet Pattern by Suzy Dias

This Snow Pea was the first thing I crocheted after we moved to Paris and visiting family while searching for an apartment of our own. Not only are my cousins terrific, they’re smart and like to read (as you can tell from the pic). I wanted to complete the Snow Pea before my son’s birthday a few days later. It was down to the wire, but all deadlines were met and I had a very happy little boy.

Easy Peasy! Now onto the pattern.

Yes! For the FREE PDF with photos instructions, please visit my 7 Robots Shop (click here) or my Ravely shop (click here). Bonne chance!

Materials
• Height: 17 cm / 6.7”
• Yarn: DK / Light Worsted Weight
• Yarn colors: Light blue, green and black
• Hook: 3 mm (C-2 or D-3)
• Yarn needle and a sewing needing
• Black felt for eyes
• Black and white thread
• 1 wooden dowel (or a nice wooden chop stick), cut to about 9.5 cm / 3.5”

Abbreviations: R – Round, MR – magic ring, ST/STS – stitch/stitches, SC – single crochet, INC – 2 single crochets (SC) in the same stitch, INVDEC – invisible decrease, EVEN – SC 1 in each ST around.

Snow Pea Head (light blue)
– Start at the back of the head, then decrease and then increase again to form the “cannon” shooter/mouth part.
R1. MR, SC8 (8)
R2. INC (16)
R3. INC, SC 1 (24)
R4. INC, SC 2 (32)
R5. INC, SC 3 (40)
R6 – 18. EVEN (40)
R19. INVDEC, SC 8 (36)
R20. INVDEC, SC 7 (32)
R21. INVDEC, SC 6 (28)
R22. INVDEC, SC 5 (24)
R23. INVDEC, SC 4 (20)
R24. EVEN
– Add stuffing now.
R25. INVDEC, SC 3 (16)
R26 – 27. EVEN (16)
– Add more stuffing so it’s firm. The “Mouth Stopper” will go between R26 and R28. INC, SC 2 (24)
R29. INC, SC 3 (32)
R30. INC, SC 4 (40)
R31 – 32. EVEN (40)
– F/O and hide tail.

*TIP*  I suggest making one “Spheres/Snow Peas” before you cut the yarn on the Snow Pea Head (or leave a long tail) in case you want to add an extra row or two. This way you’ll see exactly how deep you need the “cannon” shooter/mouth part to be for the spheres/snow peas to sit nicely inside.

Mouth Stopper (black)
– This is the black “stopper” (for lack of a better word) that keeps all the stuffing in the head.
R1. MR, SC 6 (6)
R2. INC (12)
R3. INC, SC 1 (18)
– F/O and leave very short tail.

ASSEMBLY:
To sew on, fold back the “cannon” shooter/mouth part to around R26. Use white thread to sew it in place, trying your best to hide your stitches. I placed it at the end of the head so there’s room for the spheres/snow peas to sit in the mouth.

Spheres/Snow Peas (light blue)
– Make as many as you like for the Snow Pea to shoot. Verify that the size of your sphere sits well inside the mouth.
R1. MR, SC8 (6)
R2. INC (12)
R3. INC, SC 1 (18)
R4. INC, SC 2 (24)
R5. INC, SC 3 (30)
R6. INC, SC 4 (26)
R7 – 13. EVEN (36)
R14. INVDEC, SC 4 (30)
R15. INVDEC, SC 3 (24)
R16. INVDEC, SC 2 (18)
– Generously stuff.
R17. INVDEC, SC 1 (12)
– If there’s room, add more stuffing.
R18: [INVDEC, SC 1] 6 x (12)
R19: INVDEC (6).
– Finish off and hide tail by burying it in the body.

Receptacle (light blue)
– This will sit at the bottom of the head where the stem attaches.
R1. MR, SC 6 (6)
– Don’t tighten the circle since later you will push the dowel (chopstick) up through it and into the head.
R2. INC (12)
R3. INC, SC 1 (18)
R4. INC, SC 2 (24)
– F/O and leave a long tail to sew to the head.

Stem (green)
– The wooden dowel (or chop stick) will be taller than the final stem. The opening (where you put the dowel) is at the top.
R1. MR, SC 6 (6)
R2. INC (12)
R3. BLO EVEN (12)
R4. – 20. EVEN (12)
– F/O and leave a long tail for sewing to the “Receptacle” at the base of the head.

Spikes Large x 4 (light blue)
R1. MR, SC 4 (4)
R2. SC, INC (6)
R3. SC 2, INC (8)
R4. SC 3, INC (10)
R5. SC 4, INC (12)
R6. SC 5, INC (14)
R7. SC 6, INC (16)
R8. SC 7, INC (18)
R9 – 11. EVEN
R12. SC 7, INVDEC (16)

Spikes Small x 4 (light blue)
R1. MR, SC 4 (4)
R2. SC, INC (6)
R3. SC 2, INC (8)
R4. SC 3, INC (10)
R5. SC 4, INC (12)
R6 – 8. EVEN
R9. SC 4, INVDEC (10)

Leaves x 4 (green)
– These are directly from Kate Wilson’s free pattern (click here). You start from the back of the leaf and work towards the front point.
R1. MR, SC 8 (8)
– Leave a long tail at the beginning to sew to the stem and create the shape of the leaves.
R2. INC (16)
R3. INC, SC 1 (24)
R4. INC, SC 2 (32)
R5. INC, SC 3 (40)
R6 – 9. EVEN (40)
R10. INVDEC, SC 8 (36)
R11. INVDEC, SC 7 (32)
R12. INVDEC, SC 6 (28)
R13. INVDEC, SC 5 (24)
R14. INVDEC, SC 4(20)
R15. EVEN (20)
R16. INVDEC, SC 3 (16)
– Add stuffing now.
R17. EVEN (16)
R18. INVDEC, SC 2 (12)
R19. EVEN (12)
R20. INVDEC, SC 2 (9)
R21. INVDEC, SC 1 (6)
R22. INVDEC around (3)
– F/O and hide tail tail.

Pinched Leaf Effect
Idea from Kate’s pattern: The leaves don’t yet have the “pinched” affect. Pinch the top of one (you can also pin in place) and sew it to create a pinched effect. Repeat this for all four leaves.

ASSEMBLY

Spikes
Pin your spikes in place. Sew them on so the spikes are not flattened nor stuffed. Puff out each spike before you sew it on and pin it in place so bottom is circular (not flat). There’s basically three rounds of spikes:
(1) Sew one small spike to the center of your original magic ring (MR).
(2) Add four large spikes around the small center spike – one above, one below, one to the right, and one to the left.
(3) Sew on the remaining three small spikes in front of, but in between the large spikes (like laying bricks).

Stem
1. Cut your wooden dowel (or a wooden chop stick) to about 9.5 cm / 3.5” and place it into the stem. The dowel should be taller. If not, you can undo 2 or 3 rounds.
2. Now it’s time to secure the dowel to the head.
– Push the dowel through the center of the light blue receptacle’s magic ring (MR).
– Find the center-bottom of the head and push the dowel through a space in your stitches.
3. Once it looks like everything’s in the right place and the head doesn’t flop around, use the tail from the receptacle to sew it to the head VERY SECURELY. I did this a number of times.
4. Using the tail from the stem, sew the stem to the receptacle. Again, make it extremely secure by sewing around a number of times.

Leaves
1. Tie 2 a pair of leaves together with a knot. Tie the other pair together too. Set those aside for now.
2. Place the stem on top of the knot so it sits firmly between the two leaves.
3. Using the tail from a leaf (or two), sew the stem securely to the leaves, going back and forth between all three pieces. Once done, hide the remaining tails from both leaves.
4. Put the stem and leaves you just sewed together and place them inside the other pair of leaves, creating an “x” pattern. Sew the new pair to everything else (repeat step 3).

Eyes
1. Cut oval shapes from black felt. Mine were 2 cm tall x 1.5 cm wide.
2. Use white thread to sew a circle shape in the upper left hand side.
3. Use black thread to sew it onto the head.

FREE PDF?

Yes! For the FREE PDF with photos instructions, please visit my 7 Robots Shop (click here) or my Ravely shop (click here).

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